MECHANICAL
As indicated above, digging up the grass has the disadvantage of allowing the weed seed already in the soil to germinate. The major advantage is that the soil is loosened. If you are dealing with a clayey soil, or one that is compacted, there may be advantages to digging up the turf. If you do, however, you should wait for several weeks until the weed seeds have germinated and then treat the area chemically or with light blockers as described below.

HERBICIDES
Roundup® - This has become the classic herbicide that effectively kills almost all plant material. It is sprayed on the leaves and translocated to the roots from where it is spread around the plant. This makes it a systemic weed killer. It is now formulated so that by 2 hours after spraying it is not affected by rain. Complete killing requires 7 to 10 days, and a second spraying of missed areas is usually necessary to obtain a total kill. It is relatively expensive. After the grass is dead do not dig it up, or you will be negating one of the principal advantages of using an herbicide. Plant into the dead vegetation, digging holes only sufficiently large to take plant material.

One of its advantages is that its active chemical, glyphosphate, inhibits a specific plant enzyme that is not present in other organisms, so its toxicity is relatively low. It does contain a surfactant, however, that can be more toxic than the active chemical. Consequently, care should be taken to keep it off the skin and eyes. It is also best to keep it away from ponds and streams as there is some evidence that it can cause problems for fish.

Roundup® can be obtained from garden sections in both concentrated and dilute solutions. The concentrated solutions can be diluted and applied with a garden sprayer and the dilute solutions usually come in a small spray bottle and can be applied directly.

LIGHT-BLOCKING
Whether or not you use light-blocking to kill grass and weeds you will need it in some form to help keep them out once they have been initially removed.

MULCH
We are using this term to indicate a layer of chipped bark, leaves, or needles. Such a layer at least 3 inches thick is an effective light blocker. The mulch must be renewed periodically as it will degrade. Spot applications of herbicide may also be useful as weeds reappear. If you purchase mulch, do not use cypress bark. Bald cypress trees in northeast Florida are being decimated to produce this mulch. If possible, purchase a mulch made from melaleuca (punk) trees. This is a nuisance tree whose removal is environmentally desirable. In the spring oak leaves are available in large quantities already packed in bags by homeowners who don't appreciate their value. If you have trees of your own don't rake up the leaves and discard them. Use them as mulch or leave them where they lie if you are trying to eliminate the grass under the trees. Call FPL to see about receiving a load of mulch obtained from chipped tree material.

NEWSPAPER
It is very difficult to eliminate turf using only mulch. Several inches of newspaper under a 3 inch layer of mulch will greatly increase the effectiveness of the mulch without keeping moisture from reaching the soil. The paper will last 6 months to a year before it is degraded. It is possible to kill turf by using the mulch/newspaper combination without other treatment, although a prior treatment with Roundup® will further ensure success.

LANDSCAPE FABRIC
This is a chemically treated fabric that prevents light from reaching the soil, while allowing water and fertilizer to pass. Much is spread over top of the fabric for aesthetic reasons and to retard its decomposition. You can plant through it by slicing openings in the fabric. A 3 ft. x 65 ft. roll costs about $5 and is available in most garden sections. Larger rolls are also available.

TREES & SHRUBS
Shade produced by trees and shrubs will reduce weed growth, if not completely eliminate it, as the plants mature. This will be particularly the case if you do not irrigate the plants, since without added water they will effectively compete with most weeds for soil moisture. As suggested above, do not rake up the leaves as they will add mulch. If you mulch the area around the trees or shrubs out to the drip line, this combination will be highly effective in reducing weeds. Keep the mulch about 6 ft. from tree trunks as they moisture they will retain can lead to root rot problems.

NOTES
(a.) Turf grass should never be allowed to grow inside the drip-line of trees or shrubs, as it will reduce the soil moisture and nutrients needed for their growth.
(b.) Do not dig up the turf inside the drip-line of trees since you may damage the delicate feeder roots. Use a herbicide or mulch to kill the turf.